The World's Most Prized Leather... Reversed

Horween Shell Cordovan is crafted by Horween, a renowned tannery based in Chicago, Illinois, with over a century of expertise. The term "shell" refers to a very specific type of leather sourced from the rump of a horse, and it can only be cut in a round shape. Each shell typically measures around 2.5 square feet at most (we can only make one pair of shoes per shell). The dense quality of this leather comes from a unique membrane in that part of the horse. Its high cost is driven by high demand, long tanning times, and the scarcity of horsehide.

Why Choose Reverse Shell Cordovan?

Patina is the key reason for choosing Reverse Shell Cordovan. Patina refers to the natural change in a leather product’s appearance over time with wear. Reversing the shell gives the leather a more rugged look but also allows it to absorb oils and develop a faster and more distinct patina.

There’s a wide variation in the colour of reversed Shell Cordovan. This is because Horween's primary focus during the process is colour-correcting the smooth side. For example, reversing black Shell Cordovan can produce a range of green tones - the green colour comes from a hot water dip that the shells receive - as the day goes on the water takes on some of the dye, effectively dip-dying the grain side.

Traditional Shell Cordovan gives a more uniform, polished appearance, making it ideal for a dressier look. So, while we love the character and uniqueness of Reverse Shell Cordovan, we understand that some prefer the sheen of the classic Shell Cordovan, which is why we offering both Black Shell Cordovan and Reverse Shell Cordovan as options in this drop.

What's with the Horween Shell Cordovan Ink Stamp?

One of the reasons people choose Reverse Shell Cordovan is to showcase the Genuine Horween Shell ink stamp. Each shell has its own ink stamp, but it’s not always visible on shoes. If you are opting for a reversed Shell Cordovan pair it is likely that you want the logo on full display (we want this for you too!) - however, it's important to note that the ink stamp will fade over time as the leather develops its patina. So, don’t be disappointed if your reversed Shell Cordovan product doesn't include the stamp as it will likely wear away. 

Caring for Shell Cordovan Products

Cordovan is generally easier to care for than Nappa leather. It benefits greatly from regular brushing and buffing. A quick brush not only removes dirt but also generates heat, which helps restore oils and shine to the leather. We recommend brushing after every wear if possible.

Rubbing the leather vigorously with a cloth produces a similar effect, enhancing the shine. We suggest doing this before you wear your shoes or whenever you want them to look their best. A small amount of leather cream every few weeks can soften and nourish the leather, but be careful not to overdo it, as too much cream can leave white marks in the creases. Remember, Cordovan is already naturally quite oily.

So, whether you’re drawn to the character of Reverse Shell Cordovan or the refined look of traditional Shell Cordovan, you’re choosing a leather that’s not only built to last but also rich in history and craftsmanship (just like our shoes!). With proper care, your Cordovan shoes will age beautifully, developing a unique patina that tells your own story.

 

Launching 04.18.25. Sign up here to be notified when your size is in stock.