THE ULTIMATE SNEAKERS: SMUGS SHELL CORDOVAN
Some projects push the limits of what’s possible in footwear, and this one might just top the list. Together with Rose Anvil, we’ve created what can only be described as the pinnacle of SMUGS, a super-limited run of 50 pairs, handcrafted in Horween Shell Cordovan, one of the rarest and most revered leathers in the world.
The name SMUGS started as an acronym Sneakers Made Using Good Shit and this release is as far as sneakers can go, the absolute peak of material, construction, and intent. For those who know, Horween Shell Cordovan is more than just a leather, it's dense, smooth, and rich in oils, it’s not technically leather at all but a fibrous membrane from beneath the horsehide surface. It takes six months to produce, through a painstaking process of vegetable tanning, hot-stuffing, hand-dyeing, and glass glazing.
What makes Cordovan truly remarkable is how it ages, fresh out of the box, it gleams with a deep, mirror-like shine, over time, it doesn’t just scuff, it develops. The colour lightens, the surface rolls instead of creases, and a natural luster returns with nothing more than friction and warmth, a quick rub with a cloth is enough to bring it back to a showroom shine. As Rose Anvil said in his unboxing, Cordovan is magic.
While the pattern and overall design of the SMUGS could only be described as minimal, these shell cordovan sneakers are an exercise in shoe construction maximalism.
- Each pair begins with the Shell Cordovan carefully cut and skived, ensuring consistency and balance across every panel.
- Then the upper is then fully lined with premium vegetable-tanned leather, adding strength, comfort, and breathability.
- Once the upper is complete, it enters the lasting room, where the heel counter and toe puff is added to sit cleanly beneath the surface for a seamless, structured finish. The lasting board insole is fitted and the shoe begins to take its final form.
- Before assembly, the edges of the sidewall are lightly roughened, removing the Cordovan’s glossy surface. This not only creates a stronger bond for the adhesive, but also protects the leather during future resoles ensuring the SMUGS can be rebuilt time and again without compromising the shell.
- A sidewall stitch then secures the 100% natural Lactae Hevea outsoles, completing a sneaker built not just to last, but to evolve beautifully over time.
The Cordovan SMUGS drop Thursday October 23rd, with early access at 3PM BST / 10AM EST / 8AM MST for subscribers to our Limited Edition email list, followed by a public launch at 8PM BST / 3PM EST / 2PM MST. Given the scarcity of materials, these may never be produced again. If you want to own a piece of GORAL and Rose Anvil history, make sure you’re signed up for early access. With only 50 pairs worldwide, this is the rarest SMUGS release to date.
