Understanding Chromexcel: The Leather Behind Our Most Resilient Footwear
When you invest in a pair of GORAL sneakers or boots made with Horween Chromexcel leather you’re not just buying footwear, you’re stepping into over a century of leathercraft tradition.
The Horween Leather Company is a family-run Chicago-based tannery, established in 1905. Now in its fifth generation, Horween is renowned for producing two of the most respected leathers in the world: Shell Cordovan and Chromexcel (CXL), both of which are featured across our collections. This blog explores why Chromexcel is so special, how it’s made, what to expect during the break-in period, and how to care for it so it lasts for years to come.
What Is Chromexcel?
Chromexcel is one of Horween’s signature leathers, a rugged yet supple leather that's been made using the same time-tested formula since 1913. Originally developed for mechanical uses like motor seals and gaskets (even in tanks during WWI), Chromexcel found new life as a premium leather for boots, shoes, and leather goods with its unique characteristics. It's made using a combination tanning process: it’s chrome-tanned for softness and flexibility, then vegetable-tanned for structure, longevity, and patina. This "best of both worlds" approach gives Chromexcel a rich, oily feel and a beautiful depth of colour that improves with age.
How It’s Made
Chromexcel is more than just a name, it’s a highly involved process. Each hide is hot-stuffed with Horween’s proprietary blend of oils and waxes, then treated for softness, water resistance, and durability, before being finished with rich aniline dyes and conditioning oils for its signature glow. Every hide is hand-sorted for grain quality, thickness, and consistency before being shipped to us. One of the most recognisable traits of Chromexcel is its “pull-up” effect, where the leather lightens when flexed or stretched as the oils move under the surface and over time this creates a patina that’s completely unique to the wearer.
The Break-In Period
While Chromexcel is a luxurious, premium leather, it does come with a tougher break-in period. The same dense fibres and hot-stuffed waxes that make it so durable and long-lasting also make it stiff at first. Expect a few wears before the leather begins to soften and conform to your foot. You may notice firm resistance and stiffness around the vamp and ankle, and possibly creasing that looks heavy or inconsistent, this is completely natural for Chromexcel and varies by pair. The leather’s elastic memory means it will gradually mould to your shape, developing folds and flex patterns unique to your stride. It’s not instant comfort, but the end result is a boot that fits like no other and continues to get better with age. If you're looking for a leather that’s ready out of the box, Chromexcel might not be it. But if you're willing to put in the wear, you'll be rewarded with serious comfort and character over time.
Caring for Chromexcel
The good news? Chromexcel is low-maintenance thanks to the oils and waxes infused during tanning, it resists drying out and responds well to light conditioning.
Here’s how we recommend keeping your pair in great shape:
- Use shoe trees to help retain shape and minimise creasing
- Apply a mink oil every few months to rehydrate and deepen the colour
- Avoid direct heat when drying if they get wet, let them air-dry naturally
Over time, the leather will darken slightly, soften even more, and develop a patina that reflects your lifestyle.
The Goral Takeaway
At Goral, we choose Chromexcel not because it’s easy, but because it’s exceptional. It requires skill to work with, attention to detail, and patience to bring out its best, values we believe in with every pair we make.
Whether you’re stepping into our boots or sneakers in CXL, you’re wearing something with real history, quality, and potential to become a true everyday companion. Shop our range here. As always, our shoes are made with a Blake stitch construction and are backed by our lifetime repair guarantee.
