C.F. Stead & the legacy of Waxy Commander leather
For over a century, C.F. Stead has stood as one of Britain’s most respected tanneries, playing a pivotal role in the evolution of footwear leather in the UK.
Charles Frederick Stead began his career as an apprentice at Thomas Wright & Co. Ltd, a Leeds-based leather‑dressing firm. Here, he learned the leather trade from the ground up, gaining expertise in craftsmanship, sales, and product knowledge, skills that would enable him to establish his own business near Leeds city centre.
Around 1904‑1905, Stead acquired the Sheepscar Tannery in Leeds, a historic site with buildings dating back to 1823. The location was ideal, the soft water of Meanwood Beck was perfect for tanning operations. Initially, Stead produced leathers from domestic sheepskin for book‑bindings, chamois, wallets, and other goods. By the 1920s, as suede shoes became fashionable, especially following endorsement by Edward VIII, then Duke of Windsor, Stead pivoted to deerskin and buckskin tanning.
During World War II, leather production and supply were heavily regulated, and Stead’s tannery contributed to military needs, producing sheepskin garments and boots. Post-war, the business faced challenges, but in the 1950s it restructured under new management, focusing on premium leather lines. The 1960s saw further growth, Stead acquired a tannery in York and invested in production at a time when many British tanneries were closing.
In the 1970s and 80s, Stead embraced colour variation, seasonal pattern books, and diversification into suede and waxed leathers for footwear and accessories. Heritage footwear brands recognised the quality of Stead’s leathers, incorporating them into their collections.
In the 1990s, responding to demand for a rugged, wax-treated leather suitable for boots, Stead developed Waxy Commander, a heavily waxed suede with a proprietary tannage that shrinks the hide’s fibre structure by up to 25%. This tighter fibre structure provides exceptional durability, water resistance, and patina potential, giving the leather a rich, lived-in character over time. More recently, Stead has worked with exotic hides, such as kudu, embracing natural blemishes as desirable aesthetic features.
Today, the tannery continues to operate in Leeds, maintaining British heritage, artisanal production methods, and supplying premium markets worldwide, including Europe, the USA, and Japan.
Why this history matters for the B5 Bradwell boot
Craft continuity: Using C.F. Stead’s leather connects the Bradwell B5 to over a century of British tanning expertise
Quality assurance: C.F. Stead is world renowned for producing the best suede leather
Material story: The Waxy Commander leather in Black, Wheatbuck, and Snuff isn’t just about colour or texture, it’s about tradition, durability, and character
